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Wandering around the tapas bars in the older parts of the city is the quickest and arguably the most enjoyable way to get in the mood of Madrid. Many have been open for a century or more and are more popular than ever. Look for places with brown or brown painted wood facades, tiled walls, and a lot of chatter madrileños on the sidewalk outside.
To do things right, tapas should be eaten standing up and shared between two or more people. Order a few things at each place, then move on, going to at least three or four in a day or evening session – but of course nobody’s going to mind if you just want to sit, hang around and get stuck.
For more inspiration, check out our guide to Madrid and the city’s best hotels, restaurants, bars, nightlife, shopping, things to do and free things to do.
Barrio de las Litras and Lavapiés
Albert house
With its wine-red facade, you can’t miss Casa Alberto, opened in 1827 and considered the oldest tavern in Madrid. In the 16th century, Miguel de Cervantes lived in a house on the site, where he wrote the second part of Don Quixote. Tapas are displayed on the onyx bar, with more substantial meals served in the rear restaurant. Order the ham croquettes, cod in batter, braised oxtail and – if you dare – lamb sweetbreads, tripe or snails.
Contact: casaalberto.es
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible for bars (the tables move quickly), recommended for restaurants
The House of Abuelo
If you only have time for a tapa in Madrid, turn it into a crock of prawns, sizzling in olive oil seasoned with garlic and chilli peppers, at this family-run bar. The tradition began in 1939 at the end of the Civil War when bread was in short supply but shrimp was readily available. Founded in 1906, La Casa del Abuelo is now an Instagram favorite thanks to the brightly painted list of tapas on the windows – the original is at 12 Calle Victoria, with half a dozen other branches dotted around the city.
Contact: lacasadelabuelo.es
Prices: £
Reservations: Not required
Taberna Antonio Sanchez
Dating back to 1787, this classic bar and restaurant was founded by a matador and has been run over the centuries by several former bullfighters. With its zinc bar, marble tables, tiled walls and a bull’s head on the wall, there’s no shortage of traditional character here. Pop in for a draft vermouth with some tapas or have lunch or dinner in the rear dining room. This is a good place for typical dishes such as tripe, braised bull’s tail, snails and cocido madrileño, followed by torrijas, made with bread soaked in milk, sugar and cinnamon.
Contact: www.tabernaantoniosanchez.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not required
Taberna La Dolores
With its mosaics dating back to 1908, this cute tavern near the Prado museum is easy to spot. Draft beer is still pulled by the traditional method of letting it decant, then top up to create a creamy head before serving, then order a cana (small glass) oa double (twice as big) and choose some montaditos – breads with tasty toppings – from the array on the marble counter.
Contact: esmadrid.com; instagram.com/tabernaladolores
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
Chueca, Malasaña and Conde Duque
Bodega de la Ardosa
The Ardosa dates from 1892, with red paint and engraved glass sign. It’s a much-loved institution between chic Malasaña and the boutique shops along Calle Fuencarral. The tortilla is made according to the owner’s mother’s recipe with lightly fried potato chunks and onion slices. Also eat some artichokes and some croquetas. Sit on stools around the barrels or duck under the bar at one of the back tables.
Contact: laardosa.es
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
Taberna de Angel Sierra
This wooden-fronted tavern has been in business for a century and is still very much in business. You may recognize him from Pedro Almodóvar’s films The Flower of My Secret and Parallel Mothers. The tiled interior has the original tin counter, ceiling frescoes, oak barrels and tables in the wood paneled rear hall. The draft beer is excellent, so order a caña or vermut con sel – red vermouth with a splash of soda. From simple tapas chalked on cutting boards, try the smoked cod or anchovy canapés.
Contact: tabernadeangelsierra.es
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
Puerta del Sol and Gran Via
CasaLabra
Casa Labra, a favorite of Ernest Hemingway, was founded in 1860 just off the Puerta del Sol and is reputed to have been where Pablo Iglesias founded the Spanish Socialist Workers Party (PSOE) in 1879 in the back restaurant. Their excellent draft beer, battered cod strips and squidgy cod croquetas make it a convenient place to take a break while shopping around Calle Preciados.
Contact: casalabra.es
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible for bars, recommended for restaurants
Plaza Mayor, Opera and La Latina
Bodegas Ricla
With wrought-iron pillars, terra-cotta wine vats and a brass bar, family-run Ricla, which opened in 1867, packs a lot of character into a small space behind the Plaza Mayor: there’s nowhere to sit, and there’s often it’s a little confusing but that’s all part of the fun. There is vermouth on tap and good wines by the glass. Order the cod with peppers in olive oil, Cabrales cheese in cider, and cecina (salted, air-dried beef). Address: Calle Cuchilleros 6
Contact: esmadrid.com/en/restaurants/bodegas-ricla
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
Taberna Los Huevos de Lucio
’17th century fast food’ is how this renowned café is described. The signature dish is huevos rotos: ‘broken’ fried egg on a pile of chips – magically much more than a sum of its parts – with optional extras including Iberian ham or vegetable mix called pisto. The bar is run by the younger generation of the family behind Casa Lucio across the road which is one of the most popular traditional restaurants in town.
Contact: www.loshuevosdelucio.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not required for bars but recommended for restaurants
Revuelta house
Established in the 1960s, the understated Casa Revuelta behind the Plaza Mayor is a local favorite and one of the few places in Madrid that still serves wine in the small stemless glasses known as chatos. Stop by for the legendary strips of cod in batter and meatballs with tomato sauce. They also make one of the best tortillas in town.
Contact: casarevuelta.com
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
